March 12th - Day 13

March 12th - Day 13


S 54 01.214 and W 37 34.631

Craigie Point

Although I had a relatively good forecast apart from the SW 35knots building by 3pm, today ended up being the most uncomfortable and creepy morning on the water yet.
Woke to calm conditions but heavy snow had fallen over night and it was still falling as I packed up camp around 5.30am
After meeting up briefly with Northanger I set out, rounded Cape Buller in near white out conditons. Chubby snowflakes fell generously and it all seemed aa rather tranquil beginning.
It didn't take long for the gentle head wind to pick up, carrying with it snow driving into my eyes and stinging them. I had to paddle with my eyes half shut and my head down. Sunglasses didn't do the trick, they made me paddle more blind than without.
It was a rugged section of coastline, boomers and erractics caused swell to spontaneliously explode over these hidden rocks, at times I felt like I was paddling through a mine field and with the low visiability it made for more of a challenge.
There were few places to land, and if there was a beach, it was steep and surf beaten.
Soon squalls started to hit along with the snow blizzards, and the dark grey sea and skies limited my visability even further and simply gave me the willies.
I was aiming for Right whale Bay where Northanger would be at anchor but suddenly the squalls became more frequent.
SW wind had already started to produce itself and along with that comes the katabatics doing their lethal dance out from the bays and valleys.
I noticed a small pocket beach with little swell and thought best I get off the water, now that an opportunity has produced itself.
Once turning into the bay severe winds hit me as though I simply paddled into a wall. Will I even be able to make it to shore I questioned. The thought of not made me paddle vigorously.
Once close enough, the best part of the beach was taken up with adult male Fur seals sparring with eachother, I chose the more exposed but less of a hassle section.
The challenge continued as I tried to set up my tent in this now full-on breeze, with the coldest hands I think I've ever had.
I crawled into my pole-less tent carrying big river boulders and eventually was able to erect the tent, poles an all without it taking off in flight. I will be sleeping with my buddy boulders tonight.
Once in my sleeping bag, food in my belly and luke warm hot choccy in my hands I found some comfort. At this point I did question for the first time on this journey "Why on earth do I chose to put myself through this bloody uncomfortable and a little creepy style of adventure"
I sudden urge for domestication flooded my thoughts. All I wanted to do was make a roast dinner, dig a little in the garden and ready my book near a warm and cosy wood stove..
Ahh but it was a gorgeous part of the island I saw today (in the seconds it was clear enough to see)... despite the relentless wind and the chill it carries....I still am addicted to South Georgia.

Gabcast! HAYLEYS AUDIO BLOGS #20 - AUDIOBLOG

March 11 - day 12 Salisbury Plain.


Ahhhh South Georgia continues to torment me as fierce katabatic winds blew all day, sending incoming surf along the beaches hurtling backwards at a furious speed. Prion Island was right at my finger tips as I could see it from where I am camped. White caps laced the entire collection of islands out in the bay, like a guard keeping us away.

The wind is screaming down valleys of glaciers therefore it is frigidly cold. I tried to capture the drama by film but the wind made it impossible for me to keep the tripod and camera steady and my fingers although in gloves could not stand the cold.

My tent poles flexed and stretched making my tent look as though it was in some kind of yoga pose. Many times I was out checking to see if my anchors and pegs were holding. I decided to use my full and heaviest dry bags as sand anchors. Pelican cases make for a fabulous sand anchor too, as long as you don't have a need for any time inside. It has been a long and nerve racking day.

Dean posted a few blog comments on an email he sent to me earlier today. I appreciated the wise and supportive words written by some of you whom are following this journey closely. Thank you for your insight and for taking the time to share it with me, your encouragement has helped over the past two days. And....I have some exciting news to share with you.

Both Dean and Sally with help from Heidi with Quark Expeditions have spent time trying to re-arrange Beth-Anne and my flights back home. We were finally successful at getting our flight moved to April 2nd but it was re-routed to depart from Buenos Aries. The next challenge - us getting from Stanley to BA without traveling through Santiago has been a challenging part. However the problem has been solved. AND it gives US 6 extra days in South Georgia!!!!

Yesterday I did abit of research and discovered that the Prince Albert II, the last tourist ship visiting South Georgia departs March 18th from Grytviken heading to Ushuaia. And so I sent the Captain and Expedition leader an email, stating our need to reach Ushuaia. Within a few hours I received a reply from the expedition leader welcoming us onboard. Keri, Magnus and Brian support this decision and are relieved that we finally have our entire journey back to Canada secured.
Although this still does not allow me time to continue heading north and around to the SW coast...
1. I would need 8 days of continuous perfect paddling weather (it ain't gonna happen - not this summer anyway).
2. And if I did head that way even for a few days, I could be stuck in a bay with a bad weather system which would not enable Northanger to come get me, travel back around to the north then on towards Gyrtviken to meet the ship.

HOWEVER - It sure is better than leaving on March 12 or 13th.
My wish list with the time that we have now been graced with would be to spend 2 days paddling around the North, jump on Northanger and head south, perhaps trying for Prion again. Then jump back in my kayak at the southern tip of Sth G and paddle to Grytviken therefore paddling the entire east coast of South Georgia, alone by kayak to help Save the Albatross. Yahooo!
Unfortunately, even this plan is a little unrealistic because weather still needs to co-operate. But lets see what we can do.
And so I will spend another night here on the Plains of Salisbury, hanging with the handsome Kings, avoiding the rather territorial Fur seals, enjoying the continual symphony of the South Georgia orchestra which never stops playing their splendid tunes. I will touch base with Northanger this evening, get a weather update and make a plan from there. Who knows what tomorrow may bring.

Cheers and thanks for your continual support and interest.

Hayley

March 10th, Day 11 Salisbury Plain


For those of you following my progress on the tracker you have probably noticed that I have gone backwards. Yep – the wrong way.

Today is the day for me to finally come to terms with the fact that I am not able to complete what I originally set out to do, my 10 year dream and 3+ years of a 'work in progress'....To solo sea kayak around South Georgia Island.

This morning, Keri informed me that she needs everyone ready to depart for our open ocean crossing to Stanley by March 12th/13th for our flights leaving Stanley March 27th.

For that we need to:

1.Be in a safe anchorage for all weather types and wind conditions which is a little limited around this lovely island.

2.I need to be in a position to be retrievable when it is time to depart. If I continue around the North end and over to the less predictable and wilder west coast, the weather window for the Northanger to come and get me will be limited.The weather this year has been unuaslly bad...high winds daily, very little sun, lots of snow and rain....All ships visitors and KEP base folk, all sailboats that have visited, all comment on the bad summer it has been.

It is time I accept whole heartedly the entire situation which has led to this extremely disappointing circumstance.

We were 20 days late in departing due to: Gregs injury, time it took to find another crew person, rotten weather which slowed us down sailing to Sth G and finally, my badly bruised and beaten kayak which needed a few 'touch ups'.

Aswell, due to the earthquake in Chile our international flights have been extremely difficult to change. We have been forced to change our routing which means we now need to find a way from Stanley to Buenos Aries which isn't as straight forward as it sounds.

Keri has done a marvelous job at skippering the Northanger in this challenging region. It has been necessary for her to be extremely cautious due to the lack of Greg's expertise onboard which has caused limitations to the expedition.

Now as far as the crew goes:
Beth-Anne has a job she needs to get back to, Magnus is needed to sail his dads boat back to New Zealand, Brian needs to be returned to his dear wife Lin and Keri....
It's time for her to be re-united with her husband Greg who has recently had more of his finger amputated due to an infection and tragically his father suddenly past away back in New Zealand. Greg has been trying to get home for weeks now and the earthquake in Chile has caused the airport in Santiago to be closed and passengers waiting to fly out have been camping in tents in the surrounding airport area.
And finally, Dean is probably more than ready to dis-connect himself from his computer which he has been bound to for nearly 2 months.

Knowing what Greg must be going through with his unfortunate and terrible circumstances, makes my loss seem so little.

However I am experiencing a struggle in accepting the disappointment of not achieving my established goal and fulfilling this 10 year dream.

Part of it is the fact that now having been here, paddling, camping, navigating, weather interpreting etc I have come to realise that if all the circumstances did not occur, I would have been successful, I could have done it! However we can not go down the 'What if' road. It is what it is and it is no longer in my power to change things. For now I need to let my ego rest under the pebbles I am sitting upon as I write this, rise up to the new challenges of turning this 'not how I planned' expedition into an entertaining film, fabulous book and an inspirational presentation.

And so the adventure continues. Today I paddled back into the Bay of Isles and kayaked along the absolutely mesmerizing, 'cosmic mind blowing' beach of Salisbury Plain which I previously missed due to heavy fog and wanting to make some miles the day before yesterday.

Thousands of King penguins roam this stretch of beach, trumpeting their flirtatious calls into the vast open tussock plains, Zillions of Fur seals and Ellies lolly-gag about on the fine pebbles, surf crashes rhythmically along the sandy shores and the back drop of glaciers sweeping into the dramatically scenic valley makes this entire bay seem like an amphitheater of vivacious activity.

Tomorrow I will land on Prion Island and spend some time with the animal which inspired me to take on such a journey. A creature I admire and am continually drawn to and intrigued by....the Wandering Albatross.

Numbers of nesting pairs of Albatross in this area are declining rapidly. Some islands have been made into sanctuaries where no landing is possible, Prion is open to limited visitation. I am extremely honored and privileged to be able to land and encounter these magnificent birds on their very own turf, as they raise their chick as a pair and watch it fledge an entire year later. Upon fledging, that chick will return to its birthing island 5 years later when it is sexually mature, spending all those years at sea.

After a day in Salisbury and Prion making the most of being in this vicinity and getting a chance to film all this spectacular drama, if a 2 day weather window opens up, I will attempt to round the North tip of the island. I'm busting to paddle that stretch and to simply go from the east coast to the west coast will feel like a mini achievement.

Early this morning I received an email from Dean, perfectly timed due to the 'just heard' disappointing news. Although he has been a few thousand miles away, throughout this journey his support from afar has made me feel that I have not been alone. He has kindly posted blog comments and forwarded emails to me from all those following my dream...words of comfort, inspiration, courage and kindness go a long way.

Deans recent eloquent words struck a chord in me this morning and it played on my mind all day which in the end helped me to move forward and finally accept this situation.“.......

"It seems as if everything thus far has brought nothing but delays and challenges. So what are we to glean from all of this? The regular cliches of patience? of perserverance? You may not be able to percieve the greater lessons or the bigger picture until some time has passed. This could be a lesson in, "despite your greatest efforts in life, some things just dont pan out the way we want them to". Im not really sure what this is all about, or what to say. Im just happy for you, for being able to have at least felt with your five senses, or more, your dream! It didnt go down the way you had envisioned, but you gave it your best and most noble attempt. Hayls, im proud of you and what you have accomplished, Im proud of the way you have conducted yourself in the face of huge dissapointments. Im proud of you for your determination and grit. In my eyes ( and many others) you have conquered so much more than just a physical island, Heck at this point...South Georgia is a mere technicallity! You have endured the crashing waves of dissapointment, the fierce winds of change, and the rocky outcrops of comprimise. You have successfully completed the South Georgia of the mind and spirit. Hayley...you have encompassed the true essence and spirit of your hero Shackelton and you did it with just as much grace and integrity. That in itself is a journey like no other".

A moment in Paradise is a moment well-lived and I am forever grateful for this opportunity despite the changes and unexpected outcome. That is a true adventure after all and it can be nothing less.

Keep in touch and I'll keep you posted.

Hayley

March 9th, Day 10

March 9th, Day 10 - Rosita Harbour


I'm sitting here in my tent with howling SW winds smacking my tent agressively. Rain is falling, the white caps in the harbour look wickedly dramatic and the thousands of Fur seals who have adopted this bay as their home continue doing their frolicking and scratching, swimming and snoozing as though the wind changes nothing for them. For me, after making some good miles yesterday am chomping at the bit, wanting more of that forward momentum.

I spent the morning rigging MY kayak, found the back hatch combing wasn't connected in some parts, therefore not water-tight, so the mending continues on this beaten up boat.

I plan to be on the water bright and early tomorrow morning, hoping this wind dies down. I will attempt to make my way to Eleshul, to be near the Northern end of the island. If I get a weather window I want to round and finally be on the west side of the island.

The long range forecast looks really average, it seems this particularly bad summer South Georgia is having is not bowing down, even for a week. That's all I need, 7 days of good weather, covering 25 nautical miles a day and I would be around South Georgia in no time. Oh how free it is to dream.

March 8th - Day 9, Rosita Harbour.

March 8th - Day 9, Rosita Harbour.


It felt good to be on the water most of the day, gaining miles and covering some familiar ground It was the calmest day since setting off from Grytviken 9 days ago and I utilized it fully by not getting out of the kayak or stopping for 8 hours. I island hopped in the Bay of Isles, relying on compass bearings while I experienced pea-soup fog for most of the crossings. I was delighted to pass by islands familiar to me, where we often land with the ships, particularly Prion Island. It is this area, amongst this scattering of islands where the Wandering Albatross nest and due to the calm Easterly winds that blew gently, I did not see one flying Wanderer, only Blackbrows and the odd Light Mantled Sooty Albatross passed over my head as I paddled. At one stage in the near distance with my foggy eyes, I thought I saw an area of Brash Ice, settled on the water just off from an islands I soon realized it was four or five pure white Wanderers, waiting out the calm, perhaps unable to take off due to the windless conditions. When you see them still and wading on the water, they look big and can be seen from miles away.

Throughout the day I was constantly escorted by Fur seals who porpoised next to me and on occasion swam right beneath my kayak. The huge giant kelp that laced the rocky outcrops, seemed alive as the incoming surge from wind swell, made them sway vigorously in the water like bundles of sea snakes. Although after 5 hours of paddling, my back stiffened and my left leg went numb, I ignored the discomfort and continued on happy to know that today I was making progress. I will sleep well tonight

It was good to finally touch base with Northanger on VHF radio, to touch base and make a plan to rendezvous. Due to the wind and sea conditions, Rosita Harbour was an ideal spot for them to anchor safely. It was time to meet up, pick up Week twos food bag, get all my equipment charged, download video footage and most importantly switch kayaks. I felt eager and excited to be packing my gear in my kayak, it looking - once bruised and battered, now mended and strong. Magnus with help from Brian and Beth-Anne did a fabulous job. They ended up working on it for another 3 days after I departed from Grytviken, so I was thankful that I decided to begin the trip, even though it was in the less desired spare kayak. However, now as I look at my kayak, I see a kayak that has a story, like the scars we wear after years of adventures and mishaps. Beth-Anne past on one of the 'name' suggestions the King Edward Point staff gave us and I like it.

And so my 17 foot Necky 'Looksha IV' YELLOW kayak will be named...'Banana Split'. Thanks Jane, a perfect fit.

Meeting up with the Northanger also gave us the opportunity to discuss the big picture for the coming week. Keri looked at the 5 day forecast coming up and again it looks as though I will continue to be tormented by winds that may make it difficult to gain efficient ground. There are a few windows of calm here and there, which I will take, even if it gets me only a few miles further.

I also found out that we finally have new flights, however it has been quite the chore for Sally and Dean. Our original international flight left from Santiago taking us to Victoria BC and due to the earthquake Chile suffered only a few weeks ago, that airport has been closed and flights are backed up for over 2 weeks. The airport building as been marked as unsafe so people are sleeping in tents in the surrounding area waiting for their flights. And so we have had to re-route our flight which made options very limited. Sally was able to find after calling every day, only one departure date with no more openings for months afterwards. April 2 we have to be in Buenos Aries and our next challenge is trying to get from Stanley to B.A.

Due to the 7-10 day sail back, already we are looking at the likeliest departure date for leaving South Georgia, a subject I am not ready to discuss or contemplate at this stage. I feel like I have only just got started and the last thing I want to think about is having to leave.

My stomach churns at the thought.

Now that I am here, seeing South Georgia as intimately as I am, seeing the varied wind and sea conditions, becoming familiar with the land , it's contours and opportunities for landing, experiencing the sudden changes in temperatures, sharing this gorgeous place with wildlife who seem rather tolerant. With all of this – I have come to realize that I can do this, I can succeed with my goal and accomplish what I have originally set out to do. All it requires is time which myself and the Northanger are unfortunately running out of. This thought is tormenting me a little, so right now I am putting it out of my mind and trying to be present. South Georgia is good for that. It is one place that forces you to be in the present, otherwise you miss things, or if not paying attention you may make a mistake that could be lethal.

At this moment it is all what I dreamed – kayaking and camping alone in South Georgia, although backed with constant challenges, is absolute bliss and I am grateful.

March 5, day 6 Hercules Bay


Crazy wind last night, no sleep but with SW 35 kn forecast today I stayed put caught up on sleep. Briefly saw Northanger, able to get new fuel and stove responded, yay haven't had hot food and drinks since 3 days ago. They had to rush off and get to Prince Olav, next secure anchor.

Good forecast tomorrow, will be on water at light and do the 20nm and try to make it to Prince Olav - exchange kayak , can't wait to be paddling my Necky.

Quiet on this beach, not so many Fur seals, however Southern Giant Petrels settle on beach to sleep throughout night.

Treated myself with 20 mins of music, a little escape as it snowed rained and blew for most of the day, thoughts of home, family, friends came to mind - suddenly felt so very far away.

Alls well, wanting to get some miles under me belt, that'l do wonders to my soul, although being safe n sound on this beach is divine too.

Wasn't able to charge batteries as Northanger could not stay. Will send this quick before I run out. More soon, xoxo

Sunday morning at 11am I recieved a wonderful surprise when Hayley called me directly from South Georgia via her SAT phone. It was fantastic to hear her energetic voice even through the static and distortion. How amazing to think of the technology that enables a conversation between 2 people on opposite ends of the world.

It was a short conversation as her battery only had 1 bar left but she was able to tell me that she was in good spirits despite being beach bound. She had just finished dancing with king penguins on the beach (WoW) and has been reading lots to pass the time.

I asked her if she was keeping warm and sleeping ok. She said that the outdoor clothing from Kokatat is amazing and that she is staying cozy, and that she sleeps well except for the high winds that distort her tent and wake her.

Other than that Hayley wants to send out a hello and thank you to everyone. She will be getting fresh batteries when she meets up with the Northanger and will have more updates then.The weather looks fair for tomorrow and she hopes to be on the water then. The weather reports are not always accurate to the  real time conditions, and she said that she has struggled every inch of the way so far. I think that once she turns the top of the island and the wind is at her back that she will make up lots of time hopefully.

Thanks to Sally who has been working hard at finding new flights for Hayley and Beth-Anne, you ROCK!

Windy Conditions

Gabcast! HAYLEYS AUDIO BLOGS #17 - Wind Wind and More Wind

March 4 Audio Broadcast

Gabcast! HAYLEYS AUDIO BLOGS #15 - March 4 Audio

March 3rd, Day 4th, 5.56 pm local time

March 3rd, Day 4th, 5.56 pm local time

Stromness Bay - S54 08.409 and W36 38.766

Woke to kayak, beach, tent drenched in snow, gorgeous against the blue sky and mountainous back drop, fresh snow on all the peaks.

Fierice katabatic winds screamed out of every harbour here in stromness Bay, white caps galore and willy wars (spelling), literally water being lfited from the sea and shoved forward at a great speed.

I was able to get wind and sea state on outside from passing ship, they said minimum swell and light winds. There was a break in the katabatics in the afternoon so I thought.... why not move camp so I can have a better view of outside, that way I am not trapped in here unable to get through the katabatic chaos while it's calm on the outer coast.

Alot of work to paddle an hour and gain - oh perhaps 1.5 miles. Hey it kept me warm and busy and getting used to putting up tend with chilly hands.

The katabatics came up while I breifly paddled, had to cling tight on to my paddle and watch every wind wave to see what it would do to my kayak. I was still in protected waters so controlled but had a wildness to it. I poked my bow and nose on the outside, a little lumpy and strong whips of wind all the way along. I need to wait for these SW winds too die down before I can make more ground.

K, gotta go - batteries running low. Alls well, just the usual torment and tease of South Georgia.

March 2nd Day 3

Like clockwork, my tent lit up as it did the night before which again startled me. It was as though the abandoned whaling station had come to life as their nite lights were switched on. But this was not so. My orange tent became a glow and from a peek outside, my head drenched in snow and rain in the process, I discovered who was the culprit. It was the moon, full as pie and lit up the entire flurry of activity on the beach. I have recently discovered that bathing happens in the early evenin, the fur seals twist and turn like a cork screw whilst afloat in the shallows. Wow it was a noisey night as mums returned from foraging at sea calling out to thier young ones, and the young ones calling back.

I woke up to snow, the pebbles and rocks like a patch work quilt and my tent now blending in with the mountains, snow-capped scene behind me.

Finally the communications between me and the NH have been sorted, we have discovered that there is a delay when sending and reciving emails and text messages by phone. so my ETA's and their weather text are coming in late so we all have to slow down a little and make certain we are in contact with each other.

Soon they will be able to move from their anchorage and be a little closer perhaps in VHF radio range. The weather needs to change for that to happen and it looks as though it may be turning to the SW.

Having spoken to ship staff from the two ships that have come into my vicinity - it seems as though I have done a Shackleton - chosen the wrong summer to come and do this expedition. Scott McPhail whom I have worked with for many years said to me, that yesterday was the worst weather he has every operated in while driving zodiacs in over the 13 yrs he's been doing it.

The wind howled last nite and twice I went out in search of even biggger boulders to put on pre-exisitng boulders, the gusts made my hair curl and I wouldn't be surprised that by the time I get to a mirror, a few extra greys may be there. Watch out Elephant seals, I'll be tying me and my kayak to them if the wind gets any stronger. I'm loving my hot dinners, deliciously tasty and instant, gourmet meals in a bag - Harvest Foodworks you rock!

So, likely I will see what the weather brings tomorrow and pack up and be prepared to leave. At least I can poke my head around the outside and see how it looks, I can always retreat and set up camp again if it's a no go. Patience is the key, and plans well thought through is the only way to go. From us here at Windy bay, the Furries and I wish you well. Hayls xo

1500 Arrived Leith Harbor

Feb 28 – Day 1

1030 Departed King Edward Point (yay)
1500 Arrived Leith Harbor
Nautical Miles covered approx 15nm
Camping at S54 08.867 and W36 41,152



March 1st (what happened to February?) - Day 2

Strong N-NW winds started late last night giving my tent an opportunity to be tested for toughness and waterproofing. The gusts deformed my tent for minutes at a time and during those moments, I held my breath. Preparing for this blow, I loaded my semi empty kayak with boulders and connected it to my tent. This way, we all go if the wind gets strong enough – gear, the kayak and me. And I thought being on the open ocean is intense at times!

The following morning we had an hour of sun so charged my battery with the solar panel and charged the quickly dis-charging camera batteries. The cold plays havoc on any battery out here. I made a hot Harvest Foodworks Lunch (yummy sweet and sour delight) and filmed young Elephant seals bathing along the shore right from the shelter of my tent. As soon as there was a break in the weather I dashed out for a walk and was startled when I saw a pair of antlers waiting for me as I rose the slope to look down on the whaling station. Oh, that's right, there are Reindeer on South Georgia, put here for meat and game during the whaling years.

Although I'm not on the move today and perhaps won't be for another two days, I'm happy to be here – in the elements, watching what this weather system does to the place. Nature needs patience and I've had a lot of practice with patience lately. You will notice that I am keeping these entries a little brief as my power is fairly limited in these neck of the woods. Cheers and thanks, Hayls

Houston, we have Liftoff!

Guess what?.. I have a sunburnt nose. Guess why?...coz I forget to put sunscreen on while I PADDLED ALL DAY IN THE SUN....yipppeeee!!! I am on my way, I have begun, the expedition has started.


At 10.30 I departed from KEP and had a fabulous send off by Northanger crew and staff from KEP. They all gathered watching me pack, curious as to how I was going to fit ALL THAT STUFF in my kayak. But I did and fully loaded and heavy it truely is. Mexican waves and cheers and whistles could be heard as I paddled away from shore, heading North out of East Cumberland Bay.

Calm seas, 1-2 metre glassy swell, little wind, Fur seals following, Albatross circled above my head and the sounds of South Georgia kept me company all day. By 3pm, I landed on the shores of Leith Harbour and have set up camp 500+ metres away from the abandoned whaling station in a lovely bay.

-For 10 years I have been dreaming of this moment, for 3 solid years planning and preparing for it. I am here, kayaking, camping alone in south Georgia and it is absolutely fabulous. I feel at home out here, watching carefully the sea, the weather, the terrain, wildlife, constantly examining my location, understanding it and watching carefully for sudden changes. I have obstacles, challenges and glorious moments ahead. Thank you for helping make it happen. You know who you are! It is far from a solo journey, for there has been assistance, help, advice, support, others peoples hard work and interest that has got me here, and you are with me, and I am grateful.

Here's to you, South Georgia and this journey is for the Albatross.

Day before departure

February 27th


Day before departure

Today was sensational! I was completely blown away, chuffed, pleased and extremely thankful as I observed who were once a gathering of strangers come today and make miracles happen. It was a day of craftsmanship, cohesiveness, hardwork and it was highly productive.

Beth-Anne and Magnus tackled the continuing saga of mending my dear Necky Kayak. After a day of gluing, fibreglassing and sanding, it actually now looks like a kayak again. Infact it has gained character, it looks hardy, rugged and has a 'don't mess with me' appearance. One of the base staff, Matt Holmes (on his day off) somehow got roped into helping Brain set up a mount for my 'Hero' High Definition camera. A fancy, highly functional mounted bracket needed for my helmet and lifejacket was designed and engineered by Matt and Brian. Keri spent the day baking and roasting and feeding the troops and prepared the boat for our soon to be departure. I rigged up my back-up kayak, fine tuned my gear, filmed a little and packed up my gear from Northanger, basically it is time to move out of my cozy cabin and move outdoors.

We took a few hours off in the afternoon as things needed to set, dry and bond and joined Tony and Jane who have been taking care of the museum which is situated along side the whaling station of Grytviken. They even suggested we visit Shackleton, and so with a bottle of whisky under Jane's arm, off we trotted across the other side of the bay to pay tribute to the famous explorer – Sir Ernest.

Not being to fond of strong spirits, to Shackleton's likely disappointment, I forced the bottle-cap full of whisky and proposed a toast to this fine explorer. On the back of his granite headstone is a quote from Robert Browning. It stirred something inside of me and I knew right then and there, whether my Necky kayak is ready or not, I will be departing tomorrow morning. “I hold that a man should strive to the uttermost for his life's set prize”

My kayak will need another day to complete and following that day is a big, nasty system which is about to approach our coast. It looks as though from March 1st to 3rd, 45 knot winds and 5-6 meter swell is forecasted to hit South Georgia. If I do not leave tomorrow, I won't be able to paddle for another 2 or 3 days and it is time to get on, get out there and begin.

The time has come to expose myself to South Georgia and for South Georgia to embrace me and teach me all its many intricate ways. Like Graham Charles described – “it is time to enter into the school of South Georgia”. I am ready to get in the zone of being in the wilderness, to begin listening, watching and feeling the natural rhythms of this special place.

To simply pull away from the shore and paddle for a day, although I may be beach bound for 3 days, is ok by me. I will gain much from observing this system intimately and being exposed to the elements while safely camped in a semi protective bay. What a way to test my tent, my communications and establish camp where the opportunities to observe and film will be limitless.

I will depart from King Edward Point using my back-up kayak. Brian kindly rigged a mount that Magnus had made back in Stanley for my main camera. Yesterdays test run was successful, I know all my gear fits snuggly and since this kayak is not insulated, I will have to compensate by wearing a few extra layers. All in all, it's more important I begin and this kayak will do just fine for a short time.

And once the frisky weather system passes through by then my Necky kayak will be good as new, ready to go and what a re-uniting that will be.

By 0930 (UTC -2 time zone) my gear will be stowed, my dry suit donned and paddle in my hand. Some of the base staff may even see me off and what a bonus and pleasure that has been to spend some time with this friendly bunch of South Georgians.

Oh, I forgot to remind you that I will be packing and paddling away right infront of the King Edward Point webcam, so set your alarm, get up and feel free to join the send off. Wahoo!!

Is it time to let go and get really excited again, or perhaps I should wait for the morning weather forecast, just to be sure, to be sure.

I feel a little jaded after all the excitement and perhaps breathing in too much epoxy, it's time for bed, my last sleep on Northanger for a few weeks. From now on I imagine my blogs will be brief, audio broadcasts more frequent and the tracker will be in my kayak, no longer on Northanger. So join me as I paddle around South Georgia alone for the Plight of the Albatross.

HOLY &*$@... aeroplan apparently charges you  2CENTS PER POINT, so if you "share" 37000 points they will ding YOU...$740!!! I see that aeroplan wants you to "share" with them as well. Corporate robbery!How can they charge you for your points that you earned? Absolute thievery! I will let Hayls know of the situation, Thanks to all for trying.

AEROPLAN AIRMILES

Hello everyone, Dean here. For anyone wishing to transfer air miles please visit http://www.aeroplan.com/ and log in. Apparently anyone who has aeroplan should have a login and password. Down at the bottom of the page is a section titled USE YOUR MILES. Under this menu you will see SHARE MILES. You will need to enter Hayley's Account Number to be able to "share your miles". I will send Hayleys account # to all those who have offered so far by email as it might not be wise to post the account # here. Thanks you to everyone for helping.

TO ALL WHO HAVE OFFERED AIRMILES, I will respond to your emails as soon as Hayls lets me know how many miles she needs and how to go about getting them transfered. THANK YOU to everyone who has responded so far, hugs n cuddles, Dean

February 26th update

February 26th update


Somewhere in transit from Victoria to Halifax then by ship to the
Arctic, onwards to Antarctica and finally to South Georgia ….my kayak
was accidentally damaged. This morning Northanger crew and I spent a
few minutes gathered around the damaged kayak and scratched our heads,
trying to work out what could have caused this kind of damage.

Here is Northanger crew theories as to what happened to my brand new,
fibre reinforced Necky kayak. There was a sea-sick Hef-a-lump which
snuck into the ships cargo hold in an attempt to seek the steadiest part of
the ship while transiting the South Atlantic in huge seas. The ship suddenly
lurched which caused the 10 ton Hef-a lump to be lunged with all four
kayak cockpit-sized feet off the ground, flung through the air landing
on the starboard side of the kayak. The angry Hef-a-lump got mad and
 in his attempt to get even took the kayak by its trunk and flung it across
the cargo hold, where it smashed against the bulk head of the steel hulled
ship causing the kayak to then land on it's starboard side.

Please note - this theory was created at the end of a long day of
grinding therefore the content of this theory may be slightly obscured.

Thankfully we have a yacht which is crewed by a bunch of not only good
humored and friendly folk, but talented, handy and multi-skilled as
well. Magnus actually got excited at the concept of giving the mending
of my kayak a go. His first and up until now only other visit to South
Georgia was when he was 13 years of age onboard his fathers sailboat.
And back then, right here in Grytviken he actually built a snowboard out
of fibreglass. Combined with Magnus's fibreglassing skills, Brian's
natural ability to be a logical problem solver and Beth-Annes intricate
knowledge and understanding of the construction of a kayak, our team
decided; with 2 days work, a few liters of epoxy and resin and bed-sheet
sized fiberglass matting, we may actually be able to salvage the wreckage.

In return for our positive approach, South Georgia gave us a gift of
delightfully warm sunshine and little wind. While Brian and Magnus
grinded the day away, I prepared the rest of my gear and did a test
paddle in the back-up kayak. It was divine to be in a kayak again, my
boat-bound body appreciated the rhythmical movement as I paddled for the
first time in 5 weeks. The water was mirror-still and the local King
Edward Point Fur seals seemed to also be appreciating the summer holiday
type weather. Infact all day we were in the constant company of fur
seal pups who were scrapping playfully close to the waters edge as we
all went about our day.

King Edward Point is a working base, staffed by scientists and
government officials. They are a busy bunch and although my expedition
is required to be completely self sufficient and fully equipped to deal
with most unexpected incidences, we have eagerly accepted the base
personnels offer to use their work shop. The staff have been friendly,
sympathetic and extremely supportive which goes a really long way and
is much appreciated after this recent disappointment. However all is well
because by tomorrow evening we shall have a Necky kayak fixed and
perhaps even stronger than ever.

I took a moment to paddle across and visit Shackleton's graveside, the
first time being alone beside his granite headstone. Waves of emotion
came over me, I had been dreaming of this moment for 10 for years. Here
I was, in South Georgia, beside my Polar hero, about to launch in a
kayak expedition that will take me around the unique shorelines of this
island, a dream that has been on my mind and in my focus for a number of
years.

Our day was complimented by an invite from the KEP staff to join them
for a beverage after dinner. It was a delight to meet the folks who
keenly signed up for a year or two to live and work in South Georgia.
As I write this, I am sitting on my thermorest, sleeping bag over my lap
on the deck of the base buildings. A small swell is gently crashing on
the nearby beach, the snow capped mountains are lit up by the nearly
full moon and we have the South Georgia sounds of Seals and Penguins
lulling us to sleep. Yep, Beth-Anne, Magnus and I have joined a handful
of staff to sleep under the stars. A clear night sky and calm
conditions are rare in these polar parts therefore some of us are
seizing this moment.

Don't forget to check out the webcam situated here at King Edward Point
as well as Gryviken. The cam takes a photo every 3 minutes and we are
coming and going frequently, so check it out on occasion. You can find
the address of the webcam on my blog.

Cheers folks and goodnight.

DESPERATELY SEEKING

DESPERATELY SEEKING


Does anyone have connections or contacts for AEROPLAN or Air Canada, or would anyone be willing to donate or lend AEROPLAN POINTS to two desperate kayakers? Here's why I am urgently asking.

Having funded the majority of this expedition myself, by taking a hefty loan out from my bank (one of those decisions one makes when determined to carry out a long-lived dream), I had to be fairly thrifty with my spending....Therefore I flew Beth-Anne and I to Ushuaia, and return from Stanley using my Aeroplan points. Due to the unexpected delay and dramas that have occurred and needing enough time to attempt this Sth Georgia kayak circumnavigation it is only possible if I am able to change our flights to a later departure. Right now we are due to fly out of Stanley March 20th. YIKES!

I have our dear friend Sally onto it and each day she calls Aeroplan to try and change our flights. Aeroplan only has a few seats designated to them therefore we are having trouble changing our flights.

I decided, while in this fairly expedition-desperate state to build up the courage and put it out there to all our loyal followers the need for either a donation of Aeroplan points which will allow us to purchase a higher priced seat which are showing available. And if we end up getting an economy seat after all, we can simply return your aeroplan points back to you.

For now it is important we have seats changed and booked so we then know how much time I have to work with to complete this kayak expedition, as well as plan our departure back to Stanley.

If you have any contacts with Aeroplan or Air Canada or spare points kicking around which you would be willing to kindly donate, Beth-Anne, the crew, myself and the Albatross would be extremely grateful.

Please contact Dean at: oceanmaidventures@yahoo.ca and he will take it from there. Thanks Dean, Sally for dealing with this matter, you guys are the best.

Excuse me for being cheeky, I am simply taking all measures to make this dream a reality. And thanks once again for everyones interest and support.

Feb 25th - Divine day in Elsehul

Feb 25th - Divine day in Elsehul


Due to strong N, NE head winds we were forced to stay put in Elsehul for an entire day, but what a day it ended up being. For the first time in 10 years since coming to South Georgia I was able to selfishly indulge in a landing without the duties and responsibilities of being 'on the job'. Brian, Beth-Anne and myself went by zodiac ashore and instead of having to co-ordinate 100 passengers and 11 staff for a shore excursion, I was able to immediately begin to observe, film and enjoy the action-packed animal frenzy going before us. Fur seal pups by the hundreds thrashed and splashed in the shallows along the beach, a scattering of King penguins elegantly strutted their stuff amongst the wallowing Elephant seals that lay in nearby guano-filled streams. After a walk up along tussock nearby hills which offered fantastic views overlooking our protective bay where the Northanger sat at anchor, we delightfully came upon a small gathering of Grey-headed Albatross chicks perched on their bundt-cake shaped nests. Adults glided in the overcast skies above, some negotiating a landing to reunite with youngster.

I wore a generous grin for the entire 3 hours while ashore knowing that in a day or so I will be camping amongst this Antarctic Serengeti, alone and having reached the shore by kayak. I simply can't wait. But alas, I'm going to have to, as the drama and the challenges of this expedition continues.

This morning we left at first light and dodged icebergs most of our way along the South East coast towards King Edward Point. Arriving in the late afternoon and once tied up along the jetty, a government official came onboard, stamped our passports and gave us the official visitor bio-security presentation which included the protocol which we are required to follow when landing in South Georgia.

South Georgia is a British Overseas Territory and King Edward Point is the Governments administration center and fisheries research facility. Across the other side of the bay is Grytivken, one of 7 abandoned whaling stations frequently visited by tourists ships and the occasional yacht.

By this stage I was busting to be finally reunited with my Looksha IV Necky kayak which I had not seen since late September 2008. Up until now, it had been commercially shipped from Victoria, B.C to Halifax, picked up by Akademik Ioffe, the ship I work on in both Polar Regions who had it onboard for over an year (due to my postponement of the expedition January 2009) then finally delivered last November to KEP.

I unwrapped it eagerly which was quite the chore due to multi layers of bubble wrap, blankets and plastic wrap that surrounded it. My excitement suddenly vanished and my heart sank when I noticed the first of many gel coat and glass punctures on the stern top-deck. 10 + stress punctures and fractures were found, including one which was 6 inches long. At this stage I had not noticed the worst of the damage.

Along the starboard (right) side of the kayak, I noticed along the entire stern of the kayak, the hull had completely separated from the deck. Chunks of gel coat were discovered in the stern hatch and when looking from inside the hatches, bright light shined through showing the vulnerability and fragile state of my brand-new expedition kayak.

The kayak had been completely crushed and .... is now (excuse my language) utterly screwed.

What the heck is going on? I have never experienced so many continuous hurdles and delays when taking part in an expedition, it's starting to be a little ridiculous.

My kayak generously custom built for this particular expedition, by my sponsor Necky Kayaks and Johnson Outdoors, the one which I have trained in, practiced rolling in, set up camera mounts on is unusable. Good on Brian, Magnus and Beth-Anne whom immediately started discussing the possible ways to fix it. I appreciated their positive approach and after a good old cry I let go of the frustration and disappointment and began to come up with a Plan B.

The company I work for, Quark Expeditions, agreed to lend me one of their kayaks as a back-up so I do have another kayak to use if the miracle mending of my Necky kayak is not successful. It just means another day or two delay, the frustration emphasized by an usually calm (little wind) forecast expected over the next two days. Ahhhhh!!!

Deep breath Hayls. Right now it's getting late, I'm tired after a long day and I need to sleep on this new situation and tackle it in the morning. I have to remember, I am here in South Georgia and that is a beautiful thing. Good night to you all.

Feb 23rd Elsehul

Feb 23rd Elsehul – 54°01 S 37°59 W


It's 0300 in the morning and I am on anchor watch. We arrived in the protective Bay of Elsehul (named by whalers back in 1905) around mid day. As we entered, Fur seals frolicked in the waters directly below us, porpoising at our bow as though they were beckoning us to follow and join them. Having visited this site before I recognised the rookeries of nesting Macaroni and Gentoo penguins perched high in the tussocks along the banks that created this cove. 3 species of Albatross nest here, the Blackbrowed, Grey-headed and the unique Light mantled sooty Albatross. I have only seen the latter of the 3 briefly and hope to have a more intermit look at these gorgeous birds throughout our stay.

Although the sleet, rain and snow began to fall as the forecasted Easterly wind continued to build, it was a stunning arrival. Funny enough, in this far removed island in the remote regions of the southern ocean, another sailboat soon joined us. It was Thies and Kicki onboard Wanderer 3. A unique boat traditionally built by the well known sailor Eric Hiscock in 1952.

This down-to-earth couple had been in South Georgia for 14 months already and have decided to stay for another year. I envied them and wondered about all the treasures they must have discovered having such continuous company with an island so unique, so rich and overwhelmingly abundant with wildlife whom some stay all year round.

They had visited South Georgia 11 years ago and had two delightful summers. They commented that this summer has been the worst they have ever seen – continuous high winds, snow every week and rain daily. Thies mentioned that even if I had been here in January or February, I would have only been able to paddle a day or two. This news came as a weird relief, hoping that perhaps this summer was late to arrive and now that I was here, paddle gear ready and kayak a days sail away – perhaps now the sun would show itself and the wind die down and a belated summer it would be. One can only hope right ;)

Having spent some time here they had spoken with the bird biologists working on Bird Island, an extensive research station that has been functioning for some years. Albatross pairs and chicks have stable numbers on this particular island, however the big picture of what is going on in South Georgia is quite devastating. The Albatross have even more challenges to contend with; not only long-line fishing is depleting their numbers, but rats and mice too, which actually kill and eat the vulnerable chicks whom are land-bound for an entire year before fledging. The balance of the South Georgia wildlife is out of balance this year. There are much fewer Fur seal pups to the Skuas disappointment. Skuas are one of the best scavengers about the place and with fewer Fur seal pups, this year they have been feeding on Albatross chicks.

All of this news arrived having met up with Thies and Kicki and made me eager to talk further with some of the fisheries folks that are based here for the summer in King Edward Point, our next intended anchorage. Once these winds shift to the North which will happen in 24 hours or so, we will use an entire day to get to Grytviken.

It has been a lovely night unlike any I've had in South Georgia. Normally on the ships we are moving at night or if at anchor the draft of the big ships causes us to be anchored quite a few cables from shore. Now in Northanger we are anchored close enough to be able to make out the array of beach bound, night time sounds. Fur seals called all night long with their whimpering, dog-like shrills. The odd splash could be heard by the boat and while I Iaid in my bunk, I imagined the curious visitors that were daring enough to do a close pass-by. One thing the animals lack here is fear, infact they come across so cocky one needs to take care when going ashore, the Fur seals in particular like to welcome you with their rather territorial charge when you arrive on the beach.

For our first night in South Georgia the Northanger crew are a clean bunch. Having arrived around mid-day, by late afternoon all 5 of us had showered in the elaborate spinnaker designed, fore-peak shower tube.

As the rain steadily falls and the winds howl, whipping this 22 ton steel boat around on anchor, I picture myself onshore, curled up safe n sound in my tent with those distant animal sounds right next to be. Butterflies of excitement and apprehension have returned. Enough of these imaginings, it's time to get out there and simply begin.

ARRIVAL in SOUTH GEORGIA!!!

Feb 23 – South Georgia on the horizon


It was a quiet night as we drifted with the current, engine-less in an area clear of icebergs. There were too many icebergs for us to maneuver around when making way so we decided to drift until light. We were joined by a group of dolphins whom circumnavigated our boat frequently throughout the night, their entire bodies brilliantly lit up by phosphorescence. These erratic patches of light along the water seemed even brighter than if there was moonlight shining on the surface. The company was welcome and I felt their presence as a symbol of the good-will to come.

My 0400 watch came early yet I felt eager to be out on deck, wanting to spend more time outside in the company of the numerous birds which had recently joined us. These included a few Wanderers and Black Browed Albatross and some Antarctic petrels which flitted in and out of the waves nearby our boat. We must be getting closer to land with all this action, I thought to myself. Much earlier while on watch, I was briefly joined by a fleeting pod of 5 Fin or Sei whales. I frantically banged on the hatch to announce the arrival to everyone below, but no one responded, and so I indulged in this delight completely alone. They passed from starboard to port side right across our bow at a speed which made them literally porpoise, exposing their graceful bodies as they lunged out of the water. They soon disappeared in the distance but my smile remained. I felt as though they were the first of many gifts to come during our time around the shores of South Georgia. Fur seals were also showing up, their curious heads poking above the water, taking a good long look at this new intruder, then diving beneath the surface to their underwater world.
Shortly after 0700 I noticed a darker area within the mass of thick clouds that sat heavily in the distance. “Land, Land”, I shouted, ecstatic to have South Georgia in our sights. We had to look closely to make out the subtle contours of mountainous peaks but it was land most definitely. More birds were flying around now and I had my first sighting of the handsome Grey-headed Albatross. Their stunning yellow and black striped beak could even be recognised.

At this time we were less than 35 nautical miles away from our intended anchorage in a sheltered bay called Eleshul. Unfortunately strong NE, E winds are forcasted and to avoid being caught out in such winds we have opted to pull in to safety rather than battle on to Grytviken. Already South Georgia is demonstrating who is boss in this glorious place and a boss we chose not to question. Every move we make needs to be thought through, there is little time to undo a mistake or an error of judgement, caution is the only way to work in these waters and on this land.

It's nice to have everybody up and about, sipping tea together with excitement, all eager to arrive after 7 days of heaving seas and strong wind. Although I have arrived to South Georgia numerous times over the years while working on the ships, this feels more hard-earned which then brings on the feeling of relief and gratitude. Suddenly South Georgia has a new face, the mountains seem more dramatic, the beaches even more welcoming, the wildlife a refreshing scene and the entirety of it brings on a more pressing urge to explore all of its parts. And I am here to do just that....wahooooo!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, I feel utterly privileged to be here and the excitement is building inside of me. I feel like a little kid busting to wake my parents at Christmas time to start opening the gifts that have been teasing and tormenting me during the weeks of waiting for this day to arrive. South Georgia is a gift and I am about to open it's insides and take a good long look in the precious heart of it all. I am so overwhelmingly thankful to all those who have helped me get here. I appreciate all of you and will do my best to bring South Georgia and all its wonders to you with eager eyes, an open heart and adventurous spirit in my plight to paddle for the Albatross.

LAND HO!! SOUTH GEORGIA!!!

Gabcast! HAYLEYS AUDIO BLOGS #14 - LAND HO!

Waiting for South Georgia

Waiting for South Georgia
I thought today would be the day that our eyes would gaze towards the horizon and South Georgia would show itself, but alas it will not be today. Unfortunately large tabular icebergs and smaller bergs kept us company throughout the night so it was crucial for us to slow our speed to a mere 2 knots. Although the large bergs showed up vividly on the radar, its the smaller chunks that have broken away from the larger bergs we were concerned about. These rock-like sculptures sit low in the water and are hard to see as the steep southern seas camouflage these potentially dangerous obstacles.

The following morning, as soon as it was light our designated watches were spent outside scanning the horizon and navigating through the slalom course of tabulars. The seas remained heavy for most of the day and as I stood in the cockpit, secured by a harness I couldn't help but feel completely humbled by the enormous seas surrounding me, The railings dipped heavily in the water on the port side as the swell pitched high to the sky and sent us swinging like a pendulum. And then, amongst these mountains of ocean are the birds that utilize the wind and turbulent waters. The smallest petrel of all, the Wilson's Storm Petrel dip in and out of the vigorous seas making the most of the food being made available for them to feast on. Although they are the size of a sparrow, they are at home here, their warm blooded bodies completely adapted to this frigid environment and the control they have while in flight and in these strong wind amazes me.
In the early afternoon I awoke to a pleasing feeling. The boat was not heaving to and fro like it had been for 5 days. Instead it was an unfamiliar steady rocking, almost predictable. I put on my layers, prepared my camera and went out on deck to enjoy this rare occasion. It was the Golden hour and today this hour perfectly matched its title. Icebergs were lit up like lanterns against a crimson sky, including a tabular that stretched 8 miles in length and 1 mile wide. Imagine how much of that ice is buried beneath the sea, knowing that when you see an iceberg you are only seeing a mere 10%, the majority of it is underwater. Dense masses of grey cloud lingered in the sky towards the south, and with the purity of the whitest iceberg in the foreground, made for a dramatic spectacle bringing the best out of the colour grey.

It's 9.15pm and the engine has just been turned off. It looks like we are staying put for the night, it being too dangerous to continue, running blind through the night. We will simply drift with the current in an area clear of icebergs and watch the radar closely. With only 50 miles to go until we reach the shores of South Georgia, tomorrow will be the day. “Tomorrow tomorrow, we love ya tomorrow, it's only a day away”

And so we continue to be tested with our patience and tolerance of natures curious ways. We are constantly reminded that nature is in charge and we are simply bending, flexing and moving when and how she allows. Perhaps this is a crucial process for me, preparing me for what is to come. When one attempts to maneuver along a coastline by small vessel, and share the space when onshore with wildlife on an island in the middle of the southern ocean completely exposed to the worst possible weather systems, one can only approach it with the understanding that only a small aspect of this adventure is in our hands. Without a doubt I have to accept that although I have diligently planned every step of this expedition and prepared for numerous situations, the final outcome is out of my very own hands. I will accept all gifts of nature when they are offered, as well as the setbacks, delays and obstacles. I will continue on and moved forward as though this was the way it was meant to be from the very beginning. It is what it is and I am here.

Here is a special thought and a hello to all you sailors out there. I admire you for your courage, your patience, your ability to sustain long, cramped days in a rocking and rolling vessel. My respect for you has multiplied and I envy you just a little less ;)

Feb 21st Update

February 21st update
We are less than 2 days away from South Georgia and already I am imagining the first scene on the horizon of this snow clad rugged piece of paradise in the middle of the Southern Ocean. The feelings that may follow will be of excitement, apprehension and an urgency to be finally on its very shores. And then I think of Shackleton.

We have spent 5 days so far at sea, eating rather simply living on plain pasta and Ichiban noodles, trying to keep down the odd cuppa tea and sipping water to stay hydrated. And every time I crawl into my dry, warm bunk I can not help but admire, even envy the strength, will power, the courage and hope it took for Shackleton and his men to survive such an ordeal. Imagine their first feeling as they set eyes on land, having spent 18 days at sea in a 20 foot wooden dory, home stitched canvas for shelter, drinking salt contaminated water, an only a water drenched caribou sleeping bag to turn to in an attempt to sleep.

They were a different breed of man and although I'd rather not be tested as they were, my curiosity of how they endured those circumstances, wondering if I ever could, plays on my mind.

We spent 18 hours hove-to yesterday as the wind blew 50 knots creating building blocks of seas that surrounded our little home. The feeling of vulnerability came over me once again and the confinements of this space and the limited ability to move tormented me. Every little chore was a task that needed our full attention. The simple steps of making a cup of tea or going to the bathroom consisted of precise movements that had to be done a certain way. These usually mindless chores suddenly required step by step instructions.

As we draw nearer to South Georgia my mind spends most of it's time going through the motions of packing my boat, setting up my mounted camera, setting up camp and playing close attention to the weather. I feel nervous as to how my body is going to react sitting in a kayak and the demands on my back and wrists as I paddle a fully loaded boat for the first time in a month. It will be a month tomorrow that Beth-Anne and I departed from Victoria. A whole month removed from a world of kayaking. Although I know it will be best to not push myself at first, to start steady, I know myself to well; if the weather is good I will paddle hard with the aim of trying to get a few miles under my belt.

I'm concerned about the delay and starting so late in the season. South Georgia is a place that itineraries and schedules mean nothing and you can not be in a hurry.

In some way I wonder, 'is it best that I alter my dream a little' an altered dream is still a dream after-all. Do I go into this accepting that how far I get around South Georgia Island, with the paddle window I have, is good enough or do I continue with the determination I still possess and safely, cautiously go about circumnavigating. These thoughts come in and out of my consciousness as our lengthy days at sea drift by like this SW swell.

I need to sign off as I am due to be on watch. We have started doing outside watches after an iceberg was spotted only a mile away from our port side. The air temperature has dropped and fog is common - all signs that we have crossed the convergence.

A big hello and a hug to those special parents – my mum val, my dad and Fran from New Zealand and dear Kal and Win from Ontario. xox

You Can Help

If you feel the urge or have an interest, don't forget you can contribute towards this expedition which will aid Hayley and her efforts to help Save the Albatross.


Simply click on this link to donate http://www.kayakingtosavealbatross.com/donate.asp
Everything counts no matter how small and all is greatly appreciated.

Day #3 at Sea

February 19th, Day 3 at Sea


I woke for my watch at around 0345 and noticed the engine was humming nicely. “The wind must have dropped” I thought as I pulled myself out of my coffin bunk. When I slipped into my bunk late last night the sails were up and the wind was filling them nicely. I climbed halfway out of the hatch and gazed out to the horizon noticing smooth swell undulating below the steel hull of the Northanger. About 6 Shearwaters foraged on the nearby oceans surface, dipping their feet ever so slightly into the chilling Southern Sea utilizing the gentle lift offered by the gravity of this open ocean swell.

The day drifted by as we motored for most of the day, doing a steady 5.8 knots.

The highlight was when Magnus presented a cheese and onion toasted sandwich fresh off the grill and my stomach was settled enough to indulge.

As well, when doing the routine checks outside, keeping a close eye out for ice and other vessels, feeling as though we are the only mammals to be seen for miles and suddenly being surprised to see bow riding dolphins appearing from nowhere in the middle of nowhere.

I was able to catch up on my journal writing, read up on my Sth G notes written by the Adventure Philosophy boys, who in 2005 were the first to complete the first ever seakayak circumnavigation. I even read through my video-graphy notes compiled by producer Katie, making sure I have in my head the kind of footage required to produce a film. I made use of the engine running and topped up all my batteries. It definitely is going to be one of the most gadget dominated expeditions I have ever done, something I will just have to get used to.
By 0300 Feb 20th we will be half way to South Georgia, however leading up to that milestone is a building system coming from the SW which intends to dish out 40 – 45 knots of wind. It will be a bumpy 12 hours as this feisty system moves through.

Keri is making the most of the remaining calm and is cooking up a fish stew in the pressure cooker, something we can eat over the next few days. I'm keeping my eating habits rather simple. This morning for breakfast I simply opened up a can of baked beans and ate them cold, straight from the tin.

Beth-Anne is doing much better on this crossing. She was up this afternoon, well semi-sitting and knitting with the gorgeous array of silk-like wool she bought in Ushuaia. She sends a special hello to her mum Joyce and dad Jake. All is well as we journey onwards to South Georgia.

February 18th At Sea

February 18th At Sea, South Georgia bound

Follow Hayley and the Crew at either of these links
http://www.sailblogs.com/member/southgeorgiaisland/?show=map
http://www.kayakingtosavealbatross.com/expedSG10-tracking.asp?p=2&r=0&g=2
We've been under way now for over 34 hours and so far it's been smooth sailing. In fact since 0100 this morning the engine has been turned off and we have been propelled entirely by the wind. The Jib, Main sail and Mizzen have been filled with a steady 20knot Northerly breeze and we've been zipping along at an easy 7 knots.

We departed Stanley at 0700 yesterday morning and as we pulled away from the dock Lin, Brian's wife stood waving, wishing she was joining us. Just as we transited out of the Port Stanley gap, we could still make out the little figure of Lin still waving vigorously, perhaps filled with various emotions of apprehension and excitement. Lin and Brian have spent many years sailing on their own boat and being apart is a rare thing.

We were welcomed by calm conditions offering us glassy seas and the familiar escorts whom 11 days ago guided us into the harbour, the gregarious and playful Peales dolphins.

Already Brian was showing good form as he assisted Magnus with the stowing of lines and buoys, as well as his continual curiosity of how all the systems work on the boat. Over the past 34 hours he has been out on deck helping with sail changes and keeping a keen eye on the radar. We are blessed to have had such a person turn up, keen as custard in joining us on this journey to South Georgia for the Plight of the Albatross.
Having not long been in open sea, we were joined by a lone Wanderer just as the golden hour of the evening fell upon us. The smooth ocean swell was drenched in a Rose' glow as the sun dipped below the horizon. Land was no longer in sight and the Albatross elegantly painted the sky with its graceful brush strokes offering me an opportunity to film and be in its presence.
Everyone has quickly settled into their watches. I am on watch from 0400 to 1000 then 1600 to 2200. We have to be diligent at keeping a close eye on the radar because we are potentially in ice country. A tabular iceberg was sighted at Shag rocks (160 nautical miles from South Georgia) a few days ago and depending on the wind and the current, an iceberg that size can drift in any direction. One of the concerns about navigating these waters is the bergy bits and growlers which peel off various sized icebergs. Hitting a chunk of ice is like hitting a rock and although this steel hulled boat is solid strong, we still want to go out of our way to avoid hitting any ice.

We are aiming for Shag Rocks which is 356 miles away from where we are at. We have already covered 230 nm since leaving Stanley and are making excellent progress, all under sail.

Over the next 24 hours the wind will pick up to about 35 knots but will soon die off and start coming at us gently from the west, perfect for our South Georgia destination.

As I write this I can hear the wind whipping at the lines and sheets, screaming through the other rigging components. I'm bracing myself at the galley table keeping steady by having my feet spread apart and back stiff and straight. At least my tummy muscles are getting primed for kayaking. Both Beth-Anne and I are being more diligent at taking regular sea-sickness medication and eating and drinking throughout the day. So far so good.

It feels fabulous to be on our way. It still seems fairly surreal that we are actually on our way to South Georgia - one day at a time Hayls, one day at a time :)

Hello and best wishes to you all and a special hi and hug to Lin from Brian.

Farewell Friendly Falklands

As we sat in our cozy galley, a rack of lamb roasting in the gimbaled stove, a customs officer browsed through our passports and paperwork and questioned, “you are going to South Georgia right?”.

I reply, “Sorry can you repeat the question?”, after having heard it quite clearly the first time.

“Are you going to South Georgia?” he repeated. “Yes, yes yes”, I joyfully announced, with a grin as wide as the Atlantic stretched across my face.

By 4.30pm we were cleared but still able for 12 hours to freely move about Stanley. We decided to have an easy dinner and made reservations at the Narrows Bar, a place Beth-Anne and I now call 'our local' Unfortunately we didn't bring Chris the manager all that much business, he was generous enough to allow us to take up room and use his wireless free of charge. I think he made a profit from all the cheesey chips (fries) I consumed, with my aim of trying to put on a few extra pounds before being at sea for the next 5 days.

Earlier this morning, the local news reporter came down to the boat and interviewed me about our recent good fortune of finding a suitable crew member. By midday, all radio listening locals new that the Northanger would soon be on her way to South Georgia. 

Brian was soon moved on board and settling into his bunk, borrowed jeeps and one remaining kayak were returned and Beth-Anne and I had a final workout in the gym and swimming pool. 

By 0630 tomorrow morning we should have lines released, bumpers on deck and engine warmed ready to propel us out of this friendly harbor.

At this time I would like to thank all those keen and willing people who offered to fly to Stanley and crew for us. I was overwhelmed with your offers, bless all your spontaneous, adventurous spirits.

And once again to all those here in the Falkland Islands - we look forward to seeing you at the end of March when we return from our voyage.  Your kindness and friendship has touched all of us and we are thankful to have met you all. 

From now on - blog updates and audio broadcasts will be done by satellite phone and the tracking device will be turned on and tracking our progress. We anticipate the voyage to take 5 days arriving in South Georgia around February 20/21st, I will be paddling soon after.  As you can imagine I am absolutely busting to be sitting in my Necky kayak - dipping that Werner paddle in the water completely and utterly surrounded by the scenes and sounds of South Georgia Island. Wahooooo!!!

Welcome aboard Brian, and thank you Lin for giving us your husband!

HELLO ALERT BAY!!!!

Gabcast! HAYLEYS AUDIO BLOGS #13 - HELLO ALERT BAY!!!!

Hello to Alert Bay from 3 Alert Bayites in the Falkland Islands

South Georgia Bound!

Last evening Beth-Anne and I entered the boat after an evening of blogging, emailing and skyping at our usual 'Narrows Bar' internet hangout.

"I will go to South Georgia but with a few conditions", Keri announces before we are even through the hatch.  I tried not to get too excited, nor get my hopes sky high again, wanting first of all to hear her out as she explained the circumstances with which she would be willing to take us to South Georgia. As well, I felt very protective as to how emotionally attached I got to this new possibility of going to Sth G. Having previously worked through the disappointment of it feeling very much out of reach I felt myself treading very cautiously.

Without having the expertise of Greg onboard, Keri established the following conditions.
-She would make conservative calls as to our movements particularly related to weather and sea conditions.
-If there is another major injury with one of the crew, we turn back and the expedition will be over.
-All crew will take sea-sickness medication and do their best to eat and drink on the ocean crossing.
-As I paddle, the Northanger and I will communicate regularly, they may travel a little closer than originally planned and the SW coast will only be an option if we have a decent wide weather window.
-Open up the return date so there is no time restraints or pressure to get back to catch a flight. 

Followed by the fabulous news and reasonable conditions, I called up Brian hoping he was still interested.  Yep, he was still keen and his wife Lin was still willing to let her husband head to sea with 3 women and a marvelous Magnus.
I spoke with Richard McKee who has been dealing with our permits and he was pleased too hear the news and wished us a safe journey.  I think that means we are still permitted to continue with the expedition :)

And so today we:
-Took on diesel and propane
-I returned the kayak and charts to Steve
-Bought enough Salt n Vinegar chips to keep Me and Magnus happy kiwis.
-Brian came onboard and had a good look at the engine, electrics and other workings of the boat.

This nasty SW wind that has kicked up a storm surrounding the Falklands, causing snow, hail, rain and sunshine to fall upon us in a matter of minutes, is moving through. It looks as though our time of departure will be..... WEDNESDAY - Feb 17th in the early wee hours of the morn.  Yippeee!  Phew! 

Magnus shared some of his youthful wise words - "Through previous experience, we know it's best to only get really excited once we arrive in South Georgia"

Inside my head is spinning, my tummy is churning with excitement, the butterflies are back but this time I feel completely ready to bend and twist with the tide of life, just as one needs to when involved in an expedition.

Later today Dean will be posting a few photos along side the previous blog entry, just to put a few images to the words.

Thank you Thank You for your comments and interests. I look forward to communicating with you from one of the most dramatically beautiful islands on the planet....wahooooo!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Valentines Day in the Falklands

As our stay here in Stanley draws to a close there is a bitter sweet feeling that is lingering as we prepare for our departure. Although the event that brought us here was unpleasant, it seems we have gained in numerous ways as we continued to work out what our next step would be.

In this time of need the close net community of Stanley came together and supported us in so many ways and we are grateful for all of their help.

The Penguin News did an article in their weekly newspaper, I was on local radio with generous airtime of 20 minutes as I shared our story and sticky situation. Over the past 3 days I have been bombing about in a jeep belonging to Steve Dent. He invited me to dinner, offered the use of his kayak and handed over a few charts as I started the preparation for the possible Plan B - seakayak circumnavigation of the Falkland Islands.

During a visit at the Royal Air Force - EOD (explosive ordinance disposal) office at Hillside camp picking up maps displaying where the remaining mines are situated, I was introduced to the Senior Instructor - Nik Keast and Chief Clerk - Roy Jameson.  Having heard my story they soon started making inquiries to their superiors and shortly after I was offered the use of one of their sea kayaks.

Over the years the Falkland Islands have gained a reputation of being one of the most challenging places to kayak and sail in the world, due to consistent strong wind, big seas and surf, gigantic kelp forests that prevent you from getting to shore, passages with wickedly strong current and existing mine fields which take away numerous landing sites. Although this all sounds rather daunting, it is also the one place in the world that has the largest nesting Black Browed Albatross colony. Not to mention the colorful array of penguin populations including the Magellanic, Rockhopper, Gentoo and King Penguins. 

Beth-Anne and I took a visit to Gypsy Cove and enjoyed an afternoon in the outskirts of town, where sandy beaches offer a perfect launching pad for penguins heading to sea to feed.

Over the last five days it was important for me to work through the various feelings created by the disappointed of perhaps not going to South Georgia. I was relieved to find the local gym and swimming pool to continue with my physical fitness and it really helped when I started getting stuck in with the process of expedition planning for the Falkland Island expedition.

A few days ago, Northanger crew, myself and Beth-Anne gathered to discuss our options and approach as to how to go about salvaging the 'Save the Albatross Expedition'. We all agreed that we would only go to South Georgia if we had the appropriate person to take Gregs place otherwise the Northanger would continue their role as support vessel if I was to paddle around the Falklands.

Yesterday, Greg attended the local hospital, had his finger cleaned and dressed and was soon on a plane bound for Chile then on to New Zealand. It was sad saying goodbye to this 'bloody nice bloke', he will be extremely missed.

Amidst all of this, a gentleman by the name of Brian Cartwright and his wife Lin came down to the boat having read our search for a crew member in the local paper. Later that day they joined us for a cuppa tea and shared with us his experience in sailing, inboard engine pottering and basically his time spent 'messing about in boats'. Lin expressed her opinion on Brians suitability by saying that he's the type of guy that seems to be able to work through problems calmly and efficiently and is always the one to pitch in and help troubleshoot a problem. His calm, quiet, gentle manner would be a perfect fit into what has become a strong, odd humored, colorful collection of personalities we call 'our crew'.

By tomorrow morning, Keri who has been operating the Northanger with her husband Greg for 20 years and the one ultimately responsible for all a board Northanger, will make the difficult decision whether we take on Brian and make our way to South Georgia or not. Sailing in the Southern Ocean particularly where South Georgia is situated, where tabular icebergs and brash ice from carving glaciers, huge seas and constant wind, and simply the remoteness of the region, offers challenges every minute of every day. South Georgia should not be taken lightly and it takes the right kind of people to travel and adventure there safely. 

Stand by for the announcement Monday morning! Will we be going to South Georgia, or will I be kayaking around the Falkland Islands?

Cheers

Hayley

A Sincere Thank You!

As we wait for the Penguin News to come out on Friday, advertising for a crew member - our final attempt at getting to South Georgia, I'd like to take a moment to thank everyone who has supported us throughout this recent situation.

When it first happened calls were made to people and help was immediately given:
-INGLE INSURANCE - the only insurance company I have ever met who are fair, honest and helpful!http://www.ingletravel.com/
-Debbie and Jacqui Summers - Local gals with all the connections!
-Kate and Hamish - detailed weather info to guide us to the Falklands.
-Dr Graeme Magor - Crucial medical advice and good humor at a time of need.
-Dr Roland from Stanley Hospital - more well needed medical advice.
-The Custom Officers who met and cleared us promptly upon our arrival.
-All the friendly, kind people at the Stanley hospital.
-Janice Dent who has opened up her home and lent us her jeep, kind lovely lady
-Chris at the Narrows Bar for his patience, internet access and cheesey chips.
-Maurice and Debra - Seamen's Mission for laundry, showers and book trading.
-Ken Passerfield for friendship, jeep rides and delicious dinners
-Steve Dent for warm hospitality, fab dinner, charts n kayaks n info n contacts

To Everyone from the Falkland Islands - you are forever friendly and helpful and kind at a time of need.

To all of you who are following my blog, writing comments and sending emails, passing on words of encouragement and sending hope and best wishes.  THANK YOU !

To Beth-Anne for your patience, your shoulder, your ear and words of calm and consistent wisdom.  I am so grateful you are here.

The expedition will continue!  Due to the time ticking, the summer ending, the weather windows closing -we have decided that Saturday is the deadline to find a suitable crew member.  In the mean time I am starting to work on logistics for the possible attempt at circumnavigating the Falkland Islands to help Save the Albatross. 

Hayley